Layering for cold-weather cycling involves using multiple pieces of clothing to provide the necessary insulation for your body. It’s a flexible strategy that allows for adding or removing layers depending on how the body’s temperature changes throughout the ride.
Various factors, such as the time of day, ambient temperature, and pace of your ride, directly influence our body’s perception of cold and warmth. It’s common to start your ride feeling chilly and gradually warm up as you pedal more. The intensity of the cold can surge, particularly when descending after a climb.
Such temperature variations make it hard for the body to maintain a comfortable balance. This is where the layering technique comes in.
What to wear for winter cycling?
I’ve discussed the various winter clothing that is available to cyclists. This section will cover how I’d layer the clothing in different temperature conditions.
This is just a guide, as everyone’s cold tolerance and clothing budget differ. The important thing is to get as comfortable as you can be.
I’ve seen many cyclists get creative with their layering options. The more you ride in these conditions, the more you’ll get to know yourself and, eventually, the best layering options.
Dry, 40 to 55ºF (4 to 12ºC)
- Short sleeve lightweight merino base layer
- Long sleeve, summer jersey
- Wind vest (can be easily removed mid-ride as the pace and/or temperature goes up)
- Fleeced bib shorts
- Lightweight full-finger gloves
- Merino socks
- Toe covers
- Regular sunglasses
Wet, 40 to 55ºF (4 to 12ºC)
- Short sleeve mid-weight merino base layer
- Long sleeve, thermal jersey
- Rain jacket as a removable and packable outer layer if the showers get heavy (eg: Castelli Idro, Rapha Pro Team Gore-Tex Rain Jacket)
- Lightweight full-finger gloves
- ¾ bib knickers
- Shoe covers with water protection
- Clear or photochromic sunglasses
Dry, 20 to 40ºF (-7 to 4ºC)
- Short sleeve mid-weight merino base layer
- Long sleeve, thermal jersey
- Wind vest (can be easily removed mid-ride as the pace and/or temperature goes up)
- ¾ bib knickers
- Fleeced, full-finger gloves
- Merino socks
- Overshoes
- Beanie
- Regular sunglasses
Wet, 20 to 40ºF (-7 to 4ºC)
- Short sleeve mid-weight merino base layer
- Winter jacket with a waterproof membrane (eg: Castelli Alpha RoS)
- Rain jacket as a removable and packable outer layer if the showers get heavy (eg: Castelli Idro, Rapha Pro Team Gore-Tex Rain Jacket)
- Fleeced, full-finger gloves
- Bib tights
- Shoe covers with water protection
- Beanie
- Clear or photochromic sunglasses
How to layer clothing for winter cycling
I’ll discuss the various types of clothing available for layering, their properties, and their ideal situations.
Let’s start from top to bottom.
Head
Wear a cycling cap that fits snugly under the helmet. If you have an aero helmet with minimal vents, this is an excellent time to wear it.
You don’t want your head exposed since it could start to hurt quickly in icy winds.
Balaclavas or beanies are also good for keeping your face and ear lobes warm. A pair of sunglasses also protect your eyes from the winds and showers.
Upper body
Base layer
The base layer is the foundation of your winter clothing and comes into contact with the skin. It keeps you warm by trapping warm air and getting moisture to the outer fabric of your body.
The choice of the base layer depends on the following;
- Coverage – sleeveless, short sleeves vs. long sleeves
- Insulation – light, medium weight
Natural fabrics such as merino wool are the most common fabric today. The material could also blend polyester, polypropylene, and nylon to yield different properties.
Mid layer
The mid-layer sits between the base layer and the outer layer. It’s generally a long sleeve, thermal jersey. Depending on the brand, some are thicker than others.
Whichever you choose will depend on the amount of insulation you need.
Outer layer
An outer layer is usually a jacket. It can be a gilet (sleeveless) or long sleeve jacket. Most are at least wind-resistant to protect against wind chill. The ones with water-resistant properties, such as DWR (Durable Water Repellent), will cost more.
For outer layers, consider going one size up from your usual sizing to provide additional room for the layers you have underneath. you’ll have several lay
Lower body
Depending on individual preferences, some cyclists prefer to use a combination of bib shorts with knee or leg warmers. Winter bibs and knee and leg warmers are thicker due to the inner fleeced layers. Most of them are water-resistant that can withstand light showers.
If wearing several layers on the lower body is not for you, consider wearing bib tights. They’re similar to bib shorts but with a length that goes to your ankles.
Bib knickers are the middle ground if you’re not a fan of bib tights. Bib knickers are sometimes called ¾ length bibs as the length extends to just above your calf muscles.
Hands and fingers
You’ll likely need full-finger gloves for temperatures below 50ºF (10ºC). The question is, then, how thick should the gloves be?
There are many options, from liners to fleeced and lobster gloves.
You can wear glove liners for cooler temperatures or as an additional layer under the gloves. However, this is not the most comfortable solution, with several moving layers under your fingers. You’ll also need to size up your gloves to accommodate the liners.
I prefer to do away with the glove liners and go for full-finger gloves with the appropriate insulation levels. This would also mean that you’d probably need two pairs of gloves. I have thicker gloves for 30 to 45ºF (-1 to 7ºC), and another for 45 to 55ºF (7ºC to 12ºC).
If you’re cycling in sub-zero temperatures, consider lobster gloves.
Feet
Besides the fingers, your feet are the most vulnerable to the chilly winds. Your solution for extra insulation ranges from thicker socks, toe covers, shoe covers, or even the old-school method of blocking the air vents in the shoes.
If you live in mild winter locations (eg: 50ºF/10ºC or higher), you’ll probably get away with thicker merino wool socks. For any temperatures lower than that, you’ll either need either,
- Toe covers are cheaper and easy to put on/remove, but only cover the front half of the foot.
- Shoe covers protect up to the lower calf muscles but is more expensive.
- Oversocks are super-sized socks that go over your shoes and socks. They’re made from breathable fabrics but aren’t water-resistant. Use them when it’s dry.
Mastering layering for cold-weather cycling is all about understanding your body’s response to weather conditions and adjusting your attire accordingly. From the type of cap you wear under your helmet to the insulation levels of your gloves, every choice you make will profoundly impact your comfort and performance during your ride.
This guide aims to thoroughly understand the various clothing options available for layering and how to make the most of them in different temperature conditions.